morning

Stromma

From Nyhavn, a ferry ride takes you past the brick warehouses of Christianshavn, Olafur Eliasson’s Cirkelbroen bridge, and offers a long view across to the Opera House, flanked by wooden swim decks where locals take the plunge, even in winter. For the most authentic experience, choose the larger ferries with open-air roofs where you’ll be able to soak in the summer sunshine or get a taste of the autumn breeze.

nyhavn 3 , copenhagen

afternoon

Apollo Bar

Apollo Bar is ensconced in the courtyard of the stately Charlottenborg museum, just a few minutes’ walk from the canal. The spacious dining area, known for its vaulted ceilings and ample natural light, fills with an eclectic crowd. Frederik Bille Brahe’s allday kitchen leans light and Mediterranean; choose between the fresh, seasonal dishes, order a glass of wine or a spritz, and stay well past sundown.

nyhavn 2, copenhage

night

Royal Danish Ballet

The Royal Danish Ballet, founded in 1748, is one of the oldest companies in the world, and its dancers still train in the Bournonville tradition unique to Copenhagen. Performances at the Old Stage take place beneath gilded, ornate balconies and lush red velvet curtains. Book ahead, dress for the occasion, and arrive early enough for a glass of bubbling champagne in the foyer.

kongens ny torv 9 , copenhagen

morning

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

One moment you are walking among pristine Roman and Greek sculptures, the next beneath tropical foliage in the Glyptotek’s glass-roofed winter garden. It’s a place to spend the whole morning, meandering slowly through rooms with works from classical antiquity, the Danish Golden Age, and French Impressionism, all set against walls of deep blue, sage green, and rich crimson.

dantes pl ads 7, copenhagen

afternoon

Conditori La Glace

Founded in 1870, La Glace is Denmark’s oldest confectionery and popping in for a delicate sweet is one of Copenhagen’s enduring rituals. Indulge in a slice of sportskage, savouring the taste of nougat, caramelised choux, and whipped cream atop a macaron base. In these sitting rooms, the wallpaper, chandeliers, and cake stands are perfectly preserved relics, appearing exactly as they did a century ago.

skoubogade 3 , copenhagen

night

Bar Vitrine

On the corner of the hip shopping street, Møntergade, Vitrine serves low-intervention wines alongside Indianleaning small plates with just enough spice and heat to warm you up. The restaurant is cosy without feeling crowded, the music is always exquisitely chosen, and the chefs work in plain view at the back. Order whatever delicacy the waiter recommends and always opt to open a second bottle.

møntergade 5 , copenhagen

morning

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Forty minutes up the coast from Copenhagen, Louisiana remains one of Scandinavia’s most beloved museums of modern art. Glass corridors open onto sculpture gardens overlooking the sea, Calder mobiles spin lazily in the wind, a Henry Moore sculpture sits regally on the lawn, and the coast of Sweden can be seen from the horizon. After seeing exhibitions by Giacometti and Yayoi Kusama, have a colourful lunch in the sundrenched café.

gl. s trandvej 13 , humlebæk

afternoon

Coastal Road

Take the long, winding road back into the city. Pull off first at Dyrehaven, the old royal hunting park, where deer roam freely in ancient oak forests. Continue through Klampenborg to see Arne Jacobsen’s coastal works: the Bellevue Theatre, Bellavista, the lifeguard tower at Bellevue Beach, and the futuristic petrol station in Skovshoved. End your journey at Atelier September in Hellerup with a legendary avocado-mad on rye.

strandvejen

night

Fiskebar

Inside the old Meatpacking District, Fiskebar sits in a converted butcher’s hall of minimalist white tile and exposed pipework. The kitchen serves what came in from the Limfjord that morning: oysters, langoustines, mussels in dill cream, sole grilled whole. Settle in at one of the lengthy tables, order a magnum of riesling for the room, and wait for Kødbyen’s bars to come alive after dark.

flæsketorvet 100 , copenhagen

morning

Frederiksberg Loppemarked

Saturdays in summer belong to the Frederiksberg Loppemarked, where picturesque stalls are set in front of Frederiksberg Rådhus, selling Danish glassware, Royal Copenhagen ceramics, Georg Jensen silver cutlery, and small, forgotten treasures. Treat your time here like a scavenger hunt, and remember to bring cash, an empty bag, and your keenest searching eye.

smallegade 1, frederiksberg

afternoon

Auren’s Deli

Part grocer, part café, part neighbourhood wine bar, Auren’s is the kind of place that makes you wish you lived around the corner. Seasonal dishes are plated along the central bar, and the shelves around the room hold the makings of an immaculate dinner party. Bring home some of Auren’s most adored staples like danish butter, fresh sourdough, hand-bottled vinegars, and a bottle of natural wine.

godthåbsvej 35 , frederiksberg

night

Bird

Bird is a small listening bar where crackling vinyl pours out of hand-built speakers, soft jazz one night, electropop the next. The cocktails are classics reworked in a modern key. There’s nothing as predictable as a whisky sour, so try the Tutto Vino Ditto or the Bonfire Manhattan. A groovy, low-lit room for slow drinks, good records, and even better conversation with the latenight crowd.

palægade 8 , copenhagen

morning

Lille Bakery

Sundays at Lille Bakery are guaranteed to bring in a crowd of Copenhagen locals. Set in a low brick warehouse on Refshaleøen, the kitchen cooks with seasonal produce from local farms. Long communal tables, an open counter, and a queue that tells you exactly what to order, which usually includes the daily special, a sausage roll, and the carrot cake, are what give this spot its unbeatable neighbourhood charm.

refshalevej 213b , copenhagen

afternoon

La Banchina

A few minutes from Lille Bakery, La Banchina has inadvertently become the most compelling argument for moving to Copenhagen. A wooden sauna, a swim ladder, and a tiny kitchen serving delicious sild, smoked mackerel, and natural wine on a sunwarmed deck offer the best of Danish living. Sweat, plunge into the cold sea, and dine as the light shifts across the water and the city relaxes into evening.

refshalevej 141, copenhagen

night

Barr

Inside Noma’s old canalside premises, Barr serves a pared-back vision of Nordic cooking. Waste no time in ordering the pan-fried schnitzel with capers and lemon, cult hasselback potato, and a waffle to round out your meal. End the week quayside with a hearty dinner inside the stone and wood-clad walls of this restaurant, where you might even catch a glimpse of sunset just as dessert arrives.

strandgade 93 , copenhagen